**此文章曾邗载于餐饮世界2009年6月酒客畅言栏目**
纳帕谷OPUS ONE作品一号1995-2001-2004-2005私品会：优雅当下尝
读者们有否经历过“迟来先上岸”这回事？当你还在回想之际，让我举手扬声吧。在两个月前我突然收到一个紧急通知，须马上赶赴在香港本地一个约会，接见几位专责名庄酒全球销售的重要人士。我当然是迟到赴会啦。但是，那一群等候我的人都蛮有耐性地观望我的来临，在那趟挺有建设性的会谈后，有人还答应我，将会特地安排一场他们代理的名牌佳酿精选年份品试会，让我作个点评。
那次先睹为快的品酒会终于在4月18日早上（那天是周六）举行。这是Michael Silacci米高斯拉茨先生和Roger Asleson罗察艾里森先生在香港岛四季酒店Caprice法国餐厅安排的OPUS ONE作品一号1995、2001、2004及2005四个年份的私人垂直品酒会。
Michael Silacci米高斯拉茨先生自2001年年初加盟OPUS ONE作品一号酒厂当上酿酒师，而他的第一件具挑战性的作品正是2001年那年出品。Roger Asleson罗察艾里森先生是酒厂的公共关系总监。根据我的发现，作品一号的酒在2001年以前主要是Timothy Mondavi添莫非蒙大维先生及Patrick Leon帕茨李安先生酿制（李安先生是法国Chateau Mouton Rothschild木桐酒庄酿酒师）。作品一号酒厂是Robert Mondavi罗帕蒙大维酒厂庄主罗帕蒙大维先生（他于2008年5月去世）和Baron Philippe de Rothschild罗富齐菲里男爵家族在1978年合创。酒厂的首个年份作品是1979年。酒标的徽志不单是代表着蒙大维先生与菲里男爵的结合头像，还包含了欧美酿酒的永恒结合。
也许，读者会对以下的一些作品一号产品酿酒工程数据产生兴趣（酒厂为了达至最佳组合，在每年的数额比例上会作出调配）：
- 葡萄品种：Cabernet Sauvignon苏维翁（80-97%），Cabernet Franc品丽珠（1-16%），Merlot美乐（1-7%），Malbec玛尔碧（自1994年在1-4%之内）及Petit Verdot小维多（自1997年在1-3%之内）
- 皮汁接触期：9-44天（1982年及2000年）
- 新法国橡木桶陈酿期：15-25个月（1991年及1980年）
在我出席这趟私品会之前，我过往曾尝过作品一号的少数年份，它们是1997年和1998年，两者都是优雅非常，惊喜无限，喝起来带有波尔多名酿的风格。我去这趟私品会的大使命是尝试发掘作品一号近几个年份跟过往的年份的表现差距。还有，我试图找出作品一号在中国的市场定位与增加销售数额的可行性。
我先把这四个年份酒的价格资料搁置一旁，然后按照倒数顺序的方式开始品喝他们。那瓶2005年露出深红中密度色素，不久便满布莓子和茶花鼻香，教人舒畅。味蕾带有杨桃及奶油香味，但木香不太明显。单宁中度而酒体中至圆满，酸度稍盖甜味，收结近长而略带苦辣，但干度不露。我较难推测这年轻酒的潜能，但根据此酒的低估价位，现在购买它作适时收藏也许是适当时机。何解？有请续读此文，直至末文几个段落有关我近日品尝过作品一号1992年的经验，读者便知晓当中玄机。
2004年的酒明显力壮沉重，它带有高密度深紫颜色，鼻子充满木桶、黑加仑子和草药香气。味蕾被白巧古力、玉桂和矿物粉味道笼罩着，单宁圆润，酒体丰满。虽然酒精度若隐若现，但却甜酸平衡。后味和暖而略带熏烟，收结悠长，干度和众水果味明显，略苦不辣。
2001年的酒呈宝石紫色而密度极高，樱桃及其他红皮莓子和橡木味充满鼻子。味蕾被无花果及葡萄干果支配，甜盖过酸，让酒液变为半甜状态。单宁丰滑，酒体厚壮。收结长而前述之各种香味暂进地先后重现。
1995年的酒（这是双瓶装）呈深棕红色泽，光泽仍在。在开瓶后的一个半小时已届备喝状况。但是，我们需要提前离开去赶赴附近位于置地广场内的L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon罗帕桑法国餐馆吃顿午饭。我增取在离场前很认真地反复品试每个年份酒，以图记下每个小节。此1995年酒在鼻子里散出肯定的掩制过红枣和山楂香味，但木味不太出众。草菇与橄榄香味微微地在味蕾上流连往返。单宁柔和而酒体柔软至中度。酒精度不算明显而后味蛮长，甜酸平衡及苦辣和谐匹配。
在反复品尝这四个年份酒后，我得要承认2001年酒是那天最好及合宜品喝的酒，然后是2004年酒，之后是1995年酒（我个人估计应现在把它喝掉，没必要再陈年下去）和2005年酒。诚然，那瓶2005年酒在我离开品酒室之时已显得有点粗糙。整体而言，那2001年酒是挺优雅，而那瓶2004年酒是蛮能支持下去的。
我们到达L’Alter del Joel Robochuon法国餐馆后，为了尊重餐馆的惯例，再没去品试这几瓶酒了。但是，餐馆的法籍侍酒师Benero巴讷路先生倒是眼明手快，他一看到我们携了几瓶装上Opus One礼盒的东西，便马上递上一本极具权威性的葡萄酒圣经，让酿酒师Michael米高在书内的Opus One文章上签上大名，以佐证文章内容。那顿午饭跟Opus One酒同是精彩绝伦。
在我们互相交换了国内市场分析的心得后，Michael米高向我提出一个请求，就是把剩下来的Opus One酒带去出席下一场在国内举办的宴会，好让国内朋友一尝开瓶了数小时的Opus One酒体和韵味。在会谈中，我只向Michael米高和Roger罗察表达了一个很明快的市场分析，就是根据目前中国海关的惯例名庄酒进关后会显得价位过高，在这情况下，有能力买这类酒的人都宁愿去买最有名的品牌。譬如说，人家宁愿买一瓶年份好差不详的木桐庄酒，也不会考虑买一瓶稍贵但酒质极好的Opus One酒。
我当午经过几个小时的旅程后终于抵达广东西南边的宴会活动，在场的众多“粤港澳酒业联盟”会员抢着去品尝Opus One酒，而最后的几滴酒仅在灌杯后五分钟喝掉。哦，原来优雅的Opus One酒是要“先尝为快”。这是我对此酒的整体恭维美言。
我在上周六下午有幸品喝Opus One 1992年和纳帕谷ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1993罗帕蒙大维珍藏苏维翁及Harlan Estate 2003海伦园庄红酒。结局是这样的，我们包括评酒专家和一位刚在纳帕谷退休的酿酒师都一致认为，那瓶Opus One 1992年是当天最出色的纳帕谷酒。这瓶酒的整体表现是这样的：
酒色深红稍暗，鼻子满有黑嘉伦子和桂花香气，玉桂、烤培果仁与陈年果皮香味在味蕾上起了多层变化，单宁幼丝及酒体丰满，后味复杂带有黑巧古力、烟草和甘草味道。这么的17年酒龄的酒真是很棒！
纵使酒厂在酿造1992年和2005年酒的程式有别（诸如葡萄品种的配搭、皮汁接触期、橡木桶陈酿期等等），不管那两个年头的天气状况如何，这些酒都是经过严谨的生产过程，让酒能陈年多载。这正好是“Opus One酒能陈年多载”的最佳论说。收藏者和品喝者无用担心Opus One酒的陈年能力，可根据个人预算购买。
**This article was published in Shenzhen World Cuisine Magazine June Issue – Wine Talks**
Have readers ever experienced “LATE COME BUT FIRST SERVED”? While you are recapturing such an experience, let me raise my hand first. Two months ago I was given a last minute notice to attend a meeting in Hong Kong with some key persons representing a number of premium fine wines for world-wide distribution. I was of course LATE for the meeting. However, the waiting party was so patient to WAIT AND SEE me and after the constructive meeting, I was promised to be given a tasting opportunity of a series of selected vintages of a well-known wine within their represented profile.
This FIRST SERVED opportunity was finally given to me on the 18th April morning (it was a Saturday) when Mr Michael Silacci and Mr Roger Asleson were offering me a Private Tasting of OPUS ONE four vertical vintages, namely 1995, 2001, 2004 & 2005, at CAPRICE restaurant of Four Seasons Hotel on the Hong Kong Island.
Mr Michael Silacci joined OPUS ONE Winery as Wine Maker since early 2000 and his first master piece was the vintage of 2001. Mr Roger Asleson is the Director of Public Relations of the winery. As per my memory, vintages of OPUS ONE wines earlier than 2001 were mostly made by Mr Robert Mondavi who passed away in May 2008. Mr Mondavi was also the co-founder of they winery when he represented his own winery (ROBERT MONDAVI) to form the OPUS ONE joint-venture with the BARON PHILIPPE DEROTHSCHILD family in 1978. The first vintage wine of the winery was 1979. The signature sign of OPUS ONE not just represented the integration of the images of Mr Mondavi & Baron Philippe, but also the ever lasting cooperation of American & European wine making.
Perhaps, some of these technical data for producing the OPUS ONE wines (varying year by year to reach the best combination) might be of interest to the readers, namely:
- VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon (80-97%), Cabernet Franc (1-16%), Merlot (1-7%), Malbec (1-4% since 1994) & Petit Verdot (1-3% since 1997)
- SKIN CONTACT: 9-44 days (1982 & 2000)
- BARREL AGING IN NEW FRENCH OAK: 15-25 months (1991 & 1980)
The last few vintages of OPUS ONE that I tasted prior to such private event were 1997 & 1998, they were elegant and terrific although they somehow tasted like premium Bordeaux wines. My main mission and target at such a private tasting was to try to investigate the current performance of different latest vintages of OPUS ONE against what I found various years ago. Next would be exploring the market standing of OPUS ONE in China and how it could be distributed more in the market.
Putting aside the price information of the presented vintages, I started to taste in a manner of count-down sequence. The 2005 released very pleasing nose full of berries and camellia flower aroma right after its exposure of dark red hue with medium intensity. There were flavors of star fruit & vanilla on the palate whereas the oaky taste was not quite obvious. The tannin was moderate and the body was medium to full, the acidity was a bit dominating the sweetness, the finish was close to lengthy with slight touch of spiciness & bitterness, but it was not dry at all. I could hardly evaluate the potential of this young vintage, but based on its under-estimated pricing, it might be the right time now to make a purchase of it for decent collection. Why? Please continue reading until the last few paragraphs of this article about my past few day experience of the OPUS ONE 1992.
The 2004 was apparently strong and heavy, followed by high intense dark purple color with nose of barrel, black currant & herbs. The palate was covered by white chocolate, cinnamon & mineral powder, the tannin was full & round whereas the body was full. The acidity and sugar content were balance although the alcoholic strength sometimes was apparent. The after taste was a bit smoky & warm, but lengthy with dryness & mixed fruits although the wine was not spicy but slightly bitter.
The 2001 showed jewel purple tone with high intensity, cherry & other red skin berries as well as firm oaky flavor on the nose. The palate was dominated by preserved figs and raisins, the sweetness was a bit over-powering the acidity, making the wine semi sweet. The tannin was full but silky and the body was heavy. The finish was long where the mentioned flavors progressively re-appeared one after the other.
The 1995 (as served from a magnum bottle) was showing dark maroon color but still with little shininess. It was almost ready for tasting after one & a half hour opening. However, we had to leave the venue soon to catch a subsequent lunch at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon at The Landmark. I tried to memorize every little detail after a serious tasting. This vintage had a firm nose of preserved jujube and hawthorn whereas the barrel flavor was not outstanding at all. Non-obvious flavors of mushroom & olive were lingering on the palate. The tannin was tender and the body was soft to medium. Alcoholic strength was not distinctive at all and the after taste was long with balanced acidity & sweetness and harmonious matching of spiciness & bitterness.
At that particular moment after my repeated round of tasting of all four vintages, I must admit that the 2001 was the best for drinking, next was the 2004, then the 1995 (which shall be consumed now as per my finding) and the last was the 2005. To be honest, the 2005 became a bit rough by the time when we left the restaurant’s tasting hall. Overall, the 2001 was very elegant whereas the 2004 was very supportive.
We did not have the chance to make further tasting of these vintages at L’Alter del Joel Robochuon as per the restaurant’s practice. However, the French sommelier (Mr Benero) was so smart that he presented an English Wine Bible to Michael for his signature to certify his authentication to the article in the book. The lunch was of course as wonderful as the wines.
Michael asked me to do him a favor after my sharing of analysis of Chinese market with him, that is to bring the left-over bottles to my next party so that most Chinese guests could taste the wines after long-hour opening. I only presented a clear-cut market analysis that, due to the current Customs practice in China, premium wines would become over-priced, and affording class would simply choose the best known brands. For example, one would buy a Chateau Mouton within budgeted price level even one was not sure if the vintage was good or not if the price was slightly lower than that of a good OPUS ONE.
After long-hour trip to the next place of gathering in south-west of Guangdong Province in China, most members & guests of the GHM Wine Union (Guangdong/Hong Kong/Macau) were fighting for the OPUS ONE wines and the last few drops were simply finished at the last minute of five. Oh…, the wines were SO ELEGANT TO BE TASTED AT ONCE. That was my overall compliment.
Last Saturday afternoon, I got the great chance to taste an OPUS ONE 1992 against a ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1993 and a Harlan Estate 2003. The overall result was that, even for those wine experts including one retired wine maker from Napa Valley, the OPUS ONE 1992 was the most outstanding wine among the Napa Valley team. It was with a bit dull dark red color, its nose was full of black currant & sweet osmanthus flower aromas, changing flavors of cinnamon, toasted nuts & preserved citrus on the palate, silky tannin & full round body with finish of complex flavors like dark chocolate, tobacco & liquorice. What a wonderful wine after almost 17 years! This is really a good supportive argument to say that OPUS ONE wines can be aged for many years. Collectors & drinkers shall simply care about their budgets against market pricing instead of wondering if the wines can be aged further or not.
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Wine Critic & Columnist in China (HK citizen): Kenneth Lo (KEN) 4 May 2009
BACKGROUND OF KEN:
The writer is a wine lover born in Hong Kong who seriously started to taste wine since 1996. Beginning to write wine articles in China since March 2006 for well-known websites called Wines-Info, Winefond, etc. and recognized Food & Wine Magazines like Fine Wine & Liquor Shenzhen, Wine Lifestyle Guangzhou, World Cuisine Shenzhen, Vino Vouge Beijing, etc. The number of published articles has been over 150. Currently importing & distributing Italian & other fine wines in Hong Kong & China. Acting as the Council Member of the GHM Wine Union in Guangdong Province. Aiming at letting wine lovers know the concept of THE WINE WORLD IS UNLIMITED.